4. Leaves and flower spikes removal 

After pruning the cuttings from the tree remove (with hand shears) all leaves and flower spikes except for the very small leaves at the tip of the cutting. Leaves and flower spikes inhibit root growth.
Cut leaves and flower spikes 1-2 cm (0.5-1”) from the cutting, this will reduce latex drip.
Rest of petioles and spikes will dry in a week or so and fall without latex secretion.

After the Petioles fell, pay attention to the shape where it was connected to the stem, it reminds a kind of a Smiley ☺

Why do I mention this?
If you try to grow a ‘mid-cutting’, that is a cutting that was chopped on both its sides and has no tip (and yes, it can be grown as well)
you better remember which side of it should face upwards so you’ll not burry the cutting with its head facing the wrong direction.

Let the cutting edge dry and callus in a ventilated, shady and humid place for about a week or two.
The more humid environment, the better callus result we get with less separation of wood rings.
After the edge was callused you can plant the cutting for a root growth, or store it up to 2-3 months.
The cutting area should be dry and fully callused with no signs of decay / fungus.
You can air dry the cutting for this process and you may seal the end immediately with wax.
Melt a bar of wax and dip the end of the cutting to coat it or drip wax from a lit candle to receive full coverage (be careful with fire).
Waxing the end has better results. Watch it while storing so wax coating will not fall out.

For long storage you can wrap the cuttings with newspaper and store it in a shady place.
If cuttings will shrink during long period storage, it will returns to its normal shape after planting.

Another proven method to callus Plumeria cuttings is by wrapping the cut end with a wrap / stretch foil / film
found in the kitchen or packaging supplies (e.g. Saran wrap and alike) and tighten it with an electric insulation tape or any other tape / rubber band. Wrapping is done immediately after cutting and cleaning of the cut and the foil should be well stretched over the cut to avoid any air pocket.

Some growers dip the cut end in rooting hormone before wrapping it and others do not and let the flowing sap work as a natural sealant.
After 1-2 weeks, the seal can be removed and you’ll get a very healthy and ready to root cut end.

Painting the cuttings:

After the cutting has callused and before going into roots growing phase, I also paint its side facing the ground with designated UV tree paint which is used to prevent/treat sunburns.

This kind of pain is also known to act as insects and infections repeller, so it adds another layer of protection to the cutting.
Paint the cutting end all around, but DO NOT paint the callused surface.
Another advantage of painting the cuttings is that it clearly marks the side that needs to be planted.

6. First plant for roots growing.

When cutting end is dry and callused it can be plant for roots growing. Required temperature is above 15.5 degrees Celsius. (60 F.) Heat is the key to success here.
Cuttings can be planted in a soil pot (without compost), but it is better to plant it in Perlite only. Soil plant has more chances of getting rot. Recommended planting depth is up to 5-7 Cm. (2-3”).

You can plant the cutting in a transparent recycled bottle with drainage holes. First flood the Perlite with water, let the water drain and then plant. The use of a transparent container allows easy root growth observation and reuse of the container.

If you decide to add rooting hormone/Cinnamon (powder), add it prior of planting, wet the tip cutting in water and then apply the rooting hormone.

Established roots usually develop within 45-90 days, depending on the species, weather condition and other factors.
Cuttings can be grown at this stage in a lit shaded place without direct sunlight. No watering is needed during root growth, but occasionally water spraying is recommended for creating moist atmosphere.
You can check the rooting progress after about 45 days, and if required fix rotten cutting by re-cutting the rotten end, dry and re-plant in Perlite.

 Tip: To stabilize a cutting in the container, support stick can be used or adding 3 Tuff stones to stabilize the cutting.

Another very easy method for first rooting is called Bag Rooting.
As the name implies, it involves using a small ~10x20cm.(~4×8”) or alike polybag filled with a mixture of 50% Perlite and 50% Coir (=fibres extracted from the husk of coconut).
The mixture is soaked with water without excess and tampered lightly before fitting the cuttings into it.
The bag is tighten with an electric insulation tape or any other tape and stored for growing. If growing roots in cold weather, you can use a heating mat to help the process.
After 45-90 days or more depends on species, roots will fill the bag and this is the time to replant the cutting.

Advantages of the Bag Rooting method:
• Space saving. You can store the cuttings vertically or horizontally.
• Bag is transparent so you can easily watch roots progress.
• Mixture is wet and gives the cutting its necessary water supply.  If needed, add water with a large syringe.
• A sealed bag avoids dehydration of the mixture.
• Mixture does not contain soil thus reducing the risk of rot.

More info on bag rooting for replant process in a pot/soil: (see also next paragraph)
Bag rooting’s roots are very gentle, tend to break easily while replanting it and requires some skills to succeed.

After many trials, I came up with the following technique for the replant phase:
• Replant only a dry or almost dry Perlite-Coir mixture of a bag rooting bag.
This will keep the mixture and roots bonded and will create a kind of root ball.
• Fill a pot/soil hole with a soil mixture up to three quarters of its height, tamper it and create a cone shape hole.
Add additional mixture and build a kind of a wall around the hole and tamp it as well. This mixture serves as a back-fill soil.
• Place the rooted bag at the center of the hole and hold the cutting with one hand or with a help of a ‘third hand’ that holds the cutting steady. Start to cut open the bag. (see the following image)
First cut the tape that seals the bag and follow with 4 cuts along the polybag’s length. Each cut for every quarter of the bag. Make the cuts from top to bottom, to the lowest place you can reach.
• Use a surgical knife or a very narrow X-Acto knife and make sure you only cut the polybag.
• Gently pull and slide the sliced polybag under the root ball and while doing so, add mixture to hold the root ball steady and also tamper it.
• Please note that I do not remove the Perlite-Coir mixture of the bag, I add the additional soil mixture around it.
With this procedure the roots are better protected and eventually it will grow and fill the pot/soil hole.
• Water the soil very lightly.

7. Replant in a pot / soil.

When established roots have grown and are seen through container shell or filling the bag, you can replant it to pot / soil.
Best season to replant / move a Plumeria tree is from the beginning of Spring till mid Summer. In this period Plumeria grows and their root thrives.
If you replant in a pot, prefer a pot of 10 liters (2.5 gallon) or bigger.

Composition of soil: Garden soil mixture + 1/3 compost + Perlite about 15-25%.
You can add on top a thin layer of tuff/gravel or mulch.
If you plant in a soil, make sure it is permeable and add compost as necessary.

If replanted in soil, plant trees at least 3m (10 Ft.) away from one to another to allow full growth.
Water your Plumeria once a week and fertilize in the summer at least once a month.
Note that to transfer the cutting without breaking its delicate roots, a Perlite root planting is easier to handle.

8.1. Spider Mites

A miniature spider (seen only with magnifying glass) that attacks Plumeria leaves in thousands, sucking chlorophyll, causing the leaves to turn to Silver / Yellow like color.
The attack usually takes place towards the end of Summer and due to under-watering and dust conditions.

 Care: wash the leaves thorough on both sides and irrigate on time . See below for pest control.

Caterpillar of a moth belonging to the family of Geometridae. It eats Plumeria leaves (especially of seedlings) very rapidly. Hard to see and camouflages well, but when touching the eaten area, it stands up and look like a miniature stem.

 Care: manually collect the caterpillars, transferring them to a better world or for those who are interested, raise them until butterflies will develop out of it.

8.3. Spilostethus Pandurus

Red and black illustrated bug that feeds from the plant sap and insects and also does not hesitate to bite humans.
This is one out of many in its family, each specie has its unique graphics on the back.
To identify it, it is advised to take a close-up photo of it and search Google by your image to find out if your bug
is a friend or a predator.

 Care: manually collect the bugs and transfer them to a better world or to a faraway place, far from your Plumeria.

8.4. Aphids

Another pest that also appears mainly towards the end of the summer is Aphids.

Aphids is referred to a very large family of parasite species, usually up to 4mm long that comes in several colors and that some of which are even flying.

Aphids cause plant growth decrease, curly and/or mottled leaves, yellow to brown leaves, wilting and even a tree death.
Aphids are very easy to spot because they look like deposits of small white/brown tubers on both sides of the leaves and especially on young and new leaves. With a naked eye and also with a magnifying glass it is possible to see the aphids themselves.
Look for the curly young leaves of your Plumerias and carefully check both sides of the leaves.

 Care:

1. Spray the leaves with cold water to remove the aphids.
   2. Wipe the leaves with a cotton swab soaked in a solution of Neem oil with dish soap to remove the aphids.
   3. Prune the infected leaves and remove it from the garden.
   4. Spray the leaves on both sides with a neem oil solution (see pesticides chapter).
   Repeat spraying every day/two days for one to two weeks.
   5. In extreme cases of massive aphids attack, spray with a organic pesticide and follow its contraindications.

9.2. Tag marking:

Type: there are special tags made of plastic or metal for marking plants using a wire or pining to the ground.
A cheap substitute will be disposable white plastic knifes.
Marking: using a soft pencil is a better choice since marker pen tends to fade under sunlight.

 Tip: A pencil needs a rough drawing surface. If your surface is smooth, sand paper it to get a rough surface.

Metal tags:

Plastic tags has limited lifetime and it tends to dry and break up mainly because of sun radiation.
For this reason many growers use metal tags (Aluminium mainly) which lasts for many years.
Metal tags are not cheap to purchase and you can make it by yourself by using recycled beverage cans.

Creating recycled metal tags is easy, just follow the steps ahead:

• Remove the can top and bottom covers with a sharp knife to get a cylinder. (Be very careful)
• Cut the cylinder along its large side with scissors. Cut it in a straight line (use the can’s printing as a guide).
• Straighten the opened cylinder by rolling it in opposite direction.
• Mark and cut the sheet to tags of your preferred dimensions. Use a knife or scissors.
• Trim the tag edges with scissors or with a special paper corner punch.
• Open 2 holes for the wire. Use a special hand punch or use a standard paper holes punch.
• To write on the tag, use a ballpoint pen or any ball head small metal rod, press hard while writing.
• Use a metal wire (e.g. plated copper) with 0.5mm-24 gauge or thicker to tie the tag to your Plumeria.
Make sure the loop you make will allow future branch growth.
Close the ends with a crimp wire end ferrule to get a professional loop closure.

9.3. Rooting hormone:

There are few rooting hormones in the market that comes in a form of gel or powder.
Most of them will have 1-Naphthylacetic acid as their active ingredient.
It is advised to use a compound that has anti-fungus additive. (usually Thiram = tetramethyl thiuram disulphide)

9.5. Perlite:

Perlite for gardening is used as an additive to garden soil mixture or as bedding for growing plants.
These white flakes, few millimeters in diameter, lightweight and water absorption capability allow control of water supply to the roots.

Perlite is a natural mineral product. Perlite is an amorphous volcanic glass that after high temperature heating of ~900 degrees Celsius (1652 F.) swells to about 20 times in volume and loses water stored in it.
This process created lightweight Perlite flakes used in agriculture. Color of Flakes is gray to white with high capacity of water absorption and slow release.
Perlite has many uses in industry, construction and agriculture.

You can acquire Perlite in nurseries, especially those who specialize in Hydroponic growing.
Perlite is sold per volume unit.

Since Plumeria is sensitive to water excess, Perlite is an important soil additive that allows better storage and release of water per roots require.

Tip:
1. Buy only real Perlite, not Polystyrene flakes that does not absorb water.
2. Buying a large bag of Perlite has better cost per volume ratio comparing to a small volume purchase.

9.6. Creating a transparent container for roots growing:

Using a recycled 1.5/2 liter transparent bottle of mineral water for example is handy, easy to prepare and saves space as you can gather many bottles in a relatively small space.
Using transparent bottle will allow root progress observation without removing of the cutting.

How to prepare:
1. Cut a bottle with scissors / sharp knife along its neck where it starts to narrower.
2. Punch 6 or more ~5mm (0.2”) diameter holes in the bottom of the bottle for drainage. Use a driller or a very hot nail/pin to puncture the bottom surface of the bottle.

9.7. Watering:

Plumeria, like every other plant needs water in order to thrive, grow and flourish.

How do you know if watering is needed?
Insert your finger into the soil and feel if it is dry or wet, OR use a moisture gauge.
There are few in the market that operates with electric battery or without a battery.
Gauges usually come combined with a PH meter, sun intensity meter, temperature meter and more.

9.8. Soil covering:

After planting/replanting it is advised to cover the soil for the following reasons:

• Reduce evaporation and thus saving watering.
• Restrain direct sun radiation.
• Prevents soil spilling while watering, especially if done with a hose or sprinklers.
• Prevents seeds from sprouting. Soil contains seeds and if supplied with water and light it will sprout.
  Since soil covering restrain light, most of the seeds will not sprout. 

What covering should be used?

Tuff/Gravel stones (size and color varies) OR wood chips can be used.

Wood chips comes in different sizes and colors, disinfected or non-disinfected, all according to your needs and budget.
Those who seek ecologic, sustainable and cheap solution, might use:
Mulch –                 Try to find dry and free of seeds as possible mulch and made from one kind of a tree.

Bark chips –        Bark shed from various trees can be used. I have tested bark of Pine and Eucalyptus and my Plumerias are happy with both.
Collect bark that naturally fell and crash it by hand to get chips of your desired size.
Do not peal bark from a tree by force as it might damage the tree.

How much to apply?
Cover the soil around the tree with at least half to one inch (~1-3 cm.) thickness of wood chips.

9.9. Sunburn damages:

Plumeria and especially young trees are sensitive to direct sun radiation and might develop sunburn in some places.
Sunburn damages appear on the tree side facing the sun and look as Brown/Orange, corrosion like color local stain/s.
Severe damage might show as missing of bark and even internal destruction that may cause the branch to break.

It is possible to protect and prevent sunburn damages by applying designated paint and paint the stem and branches.
The paint, which is White in color, reflects UV radiation and is said to also repel insects, infections and even rodents.

Use only designated paint for trees. DO NOT use wall paint!

There are few commercial paints in the market, such as for example ‘Tree Trunk White’ which contains Titanium Dioxide and is said to be “Non-toxic formula”. Read its SDS document prior of using it.

Make sure to protect your hands and eyes when you paint. In case of skin or eyes paint contact, wash it thoroughly.
Read the paint instructions and dilute it as required. Painting is done with a brush or with a roller.
When applying the paint it will looks somehow transparent, but after it dries out, it becomes opaque and bright White.

B. Internal test with a nail:
Prick the branch/cutting with a bright color nail or any other small diameter tool with sharp edge.
Using a bright color allows review of the nail after it is pulled out to see if it has any residue on it.
Disinfect the nail with Alcohol before you start.
If the prick point drips SAP, the branch/cutting is probably healthy. In no SAP is dripping, further investigation is needed.
The level of the nail penetration force can suggest internal dry/rotten layers.
Examine the nail when you pull it out, if it has Brown/Black powder/paste on it, this suggests of a rotten branch.

Protect your hands and eyes when working with sharp objects.
Do not use tooth stick as it tend to break, split and may harm you.
SAP is said to be poisonous, protect your skin and eyes and in case of contact, wash it thoroughly.
This test method should be considered as preliminary test and not a very accurate one.

C. Internal test through cutting:
This is the most accurate method for decay detection and will allow quick treat.

A vertical cut is made to the branch/cutting with a very sharp knife or a pruning saw.
It is advised to work against a wood block that acts as a contra to the cutting force.
Protect your hands and eyes when working with sharp objects.
When making a cut, SAP may drip from the cutting area.
SAP is said to be poisonous, protect your skin and eyes and in case of contact, wash it thoroughly.
Clean your cutting tool with Alcohol after each cut to prevent infection transfer to the next cut.

If you find any Brown/Black areas in the cutting surface, these are signs of decay. It should be handled right away as it tends to spread downwards to the stem.
Efficient treatment is done by removing rotten and/or dry branches up to the point where it is healthy.
Continue to cut slice after slice until you reach a Green/White cut with no traces of Brown/Black areas, this is a healthy point and there is no need to further cut the branch.
Seal the cut on the tree with a special tree sealant paste, DAP, Cinnamon paste or a mud paste.